There are some people in life that you just immediately
connect. This is how I felt when I met Mike Watkins at his farm, Lazy River, in
Hermon. His patient demeanor coupled with his knack at reading someone’s
personality makes for good company. What is more, I was impressed by his immaculate
gardens. They leave a person to believe Mike hires help, but in reality he does
the majority of the work himself with a little help from his son, Raymond, and
brother, Bill. When I complimented Mike on his success, knowing how much time
(at least twelve hours/day) and effort he puts into each plant, he modestly
responded, “Oh, I putter around.”
21 years ago, Mike Watkins oversaw the growth of a thousand pheasants
on only two acres of land. He moved to the North Country, searching like David
Rice for that perfect slice of land to satisfy his desires, a hunting preserve
and a quiet place to fish. He quickly discovered lending his land to seasonal
hunters was not enough to sustain his family. “When you have five hungry kids
and a wife that works part time, you learn to do a lot of things,” he quietly
commented. Mike began picking fiddleheads and leaks for the spring sale. He used
to ship over 800 lbs./week, but the demand was too much as he juggled other
jobs. Now Mike sells 200 lbs./week to a company in Vermont. He also has
personally cut, sawed and delivered lumber from his hardwood lot to make ends
meet.
For 18 years now, Mike has grown a wide range of vegetables.
He had no prior experience in farming; nonetheless, his work ethic gleamed in
the sun’s rays reflecting on his 200-acre farm. The growth of his vegetables
was through a process of trial and many errors. At one point the grassy spots
surrounding the house used to be tilled for vegetable cultivation; however, the
lack children’s hands permitted grass to grow. Even so, Mike’s sizable beds and
three greenhouses make a person wonder if hides extra hours in his day
somewhere.
Mike’s success is an upshot of his keen business oriented mind.
He can state how many markets worth of produce are in a given row (generally
four), and his math skills are quick as well as calculated. Any excess produce he donates to community
members as well as the local food pantry. Mike’s generosity outshined his
prickly beard as he encouraged me to take home sweet onions, yellow beans, and
blueberries. “Take what you need…do you want anything else?” he kept asking. His
kindness isn’t just an after thought or a neighborly gesture either. For
example, Mike harvests his watermelons and cantaloupe at a smaller size because
he recognizes often commercial size melons spoil before elderly can consume
their juicy summer flesh. He also grows sweet corn at the request of Farmers
Market customers, even though doing do costs him money.
Mike is what I call a “thinker.” He “tries to make the most
with what [he] has.” For example, he
built his greenhouses out of repurposed materials. On the
16’ x 90’ he only spent $300 to build, using his own lumber and labor. The
other greenhouse is two pre-made greenhouses from Tractor Supply Co. put
together after they failed to make the growing process worthwhile. He braced
the metal poles with three foot stakes, 2’x 6’ cedar boards and recycled last
year’s plastic from the 16’ x 90’. “Desperation is a great provider,” he
remarked. That is not to say Mike is desperate or in need; he simply lives a
life of innovation and logic.
Management wise, Mike uses the least amount of chemicals
necessary, but occasionally will treat his plants with Bull’s eye, Miracle Gro,
or CaMg+. To prove wife’s tales are sometimes true, he also spreads dog hair
around the garden because deer do not like the scent. Forage oats planted
between rows during the summer serve as a cover crop, returning needed nutrients
into the ground and cutting unwanted weeds. On a side note, I was surprised at
how lush Mike’s gardens appeared. Many farmers are struggling with irrigation
as a consequence of this summer’s dry season. Yet, Mike’s sandy soil has
withheld fairly well. He bent down to show me this, squeezing a handful of dirt
to show how the moisture caused the particles to stick together.
The visit to Mike’s farm reminded me of how life is a
process. We often forget when eating a meal that someone, somewhere (hopefully
nearby) grew that eggplant or tomato. Someone spent countless hours freeing onions
from weeds, milking cows, or planting new crops. We take for granted farming is
not only a hobby, but also an occupation. Supporting local food systems is
critical for people like Mike who rely on our community for his income. I left Lazy River Farm feeling like I do
after a long conversation with my dad: settled, comforted and informed. I also
left with a job blueberry picking…and how could a girl turn that down?